October 07 , 2025

How to Stop Stairs Creaking for Good: A Carpenter's Guide

Creak... squeak... groan. A creaky staircase is more than just an annoyance. It’s the soundtrack to a thousand failed midnight snack runs. It’s the alarm bell that tells the whole house you’re trying to sneak upstairs late. That one step that announces your presence to the entire house? We can fix that.

 

 

The good news is you don't have to live with it. A creaky staircase is the tell-tale sign of a house settling in after years of wear and tear, and it's a problem I've been called in to fix countless times. It's rarely a sign of a serious structural issue. More often than not, it's just a bit of movement that needs sorting.

 

 

I'm going to show you a few simple but incredibly effective ways to fix squeaky stairs and bring peace and quiet back to your home. We'll start with the easy stuff and work our way up to the proper carpenter's fixes.

Why Do My Stairs Creak? Understanding the Cause

Before we can fix it, we need to know what's causing that irritating noise. It’s not ghosts. In short, it's movement. Your timber stairs are made of three main parts, and over time, as the wood dries out and settles, tiny gaps can form between them. When you step on a tread, it moves slightly and rubs against another part of the staircase. That's your squeak.

To know what to fix, you first need to know the lingo. A staircase is a simple bit of joinery.

Part

Description

Tread

The flat, horizontal part you step on.

Riser

The vertical board between each tread.

Stringer

The saw-toothed side panels that hold the treads and risers together.

The squeak is almost always caused by the tread rubbing against either the top of the riser behind it or the stringer at the side. Our mission, therefore, is to stop that movement.

"The golden rule for silencing a creaky staircase is to stop movement. Every single fix, whether it's a screw, a wedge, or a glue block, is all about preventing the tread from rubbing against the riser or stringer. That’s the whole game."

The Detective Work: Finding the Exact Squeak

Right, before you grab any tools, you need to play detective. There's no point in fixing the fifth step if the noise is coming from the sixth. You need to be precise.

Walk slowly up and down the stairs. Try to put your weight on different parts of each tread – the left side, the right side, the middle, the front, the back. You'll soon find the exact spot that triggers the noise.

If you can, get a helper. Have them walk up and down the stairs while you listen. If you have access to the underside of the staircase (from a cupboard or cellar), this is the best way to pinpoint the source. You can often see the tiny movement that’s causing the problem.

Once you’ve found the culprit (or culprits – it’s often more than one), you’re ready to choose your method of attack.

How to Fix Creaky Stairs from Above

This is your only option if your staircase is enclosed, carpeted, or you just don't have access to the underside. These methods can be very effective, especially for minor squeaks.

Method 1: The Quick (But Temporary) Fix: Talcum Powder

I know, it sounds mad. But for very minor squeaks caused by two finished boards rubbing together, this can sometimes work.

  • The theory: The fine powder works its way into the tiny gap between the tread and the riser. It acts as a dry lubricant, stopping the friction that causes the squeak.

  • How to do it: Just sprinkle a generous amount of talcum powder along the seam where the noisy tread meets the riser. Work it into the joint with an old paintbrush, then walk on the step a few times to help it settle in.

  • The verdict: Take it from me, this is a short-term fix at best. It might quieten things down for a few weeks, but the squeak will almost certainly come back. It's a good first step, but don't expect miracles.

Method 2: Screwing Down the Treads (The Best Top-Down Fix)

This is a much more permanent and effective solution. The goal here is to physically pull the loose tread down tight against the stringer or the timber joist supporting it, eliminating the movement.

This is best done on bare wood stairs, but you can do it on a carpeted staircase if you're careful.

  1. Locate the supports:either the stringer at the side of the tread, or the joists running underneath. You can usually find these by tapping the tread to find a solid spot, or by using a stud finder.

  2. Drill your pilot holes. You need to drill a pilot hole through the tread and into the stringer/joist below. This is crucial to prevent the wood from splitting. Use a drill bit that's slightly smaller than the diameter of your screw. I'd recommend using two or three screws per tread for a solid fix.

  3. Countersink the holes. Use a countersink bit to create a small 'V' shape at the top of each pilot hole. This allows the head of the screw to sit flush with or just below the surface of the tread, so you won't feel it underfoot.

  4. Drive the screws. Use a decent-length wood screw (a 50mm or 60mm screw is usually about right). Drive it in firmly until the head is sitting neatly in your countersunk hole. You should feel it pull the tread down tight.

  5. Disguise the fix. If you're working on bare wood, you can fill the small hole above the screw head with a wood filler that matches the colour of your staircase. Once it's dry, a light sand and a touch of varnish will make the fix almost invisible.

How to Fix Creaky Stairs from Underneath (The Most Effective Methods)

If you have access to the underside of your staircase, you're in luck. This is where you can perform the most effective and permanent fixes. It's what a professional joiner would do.

Method 3: The Glue Block Fix (My Go-To Method)

This is the proper joiner's fix. It's incredibly strong and reliable. We're going to glue and screw a block of wood into the corner where the moving tread meets the riser, effectively locking them together.

"This is the best fix in the book. A well-glued and screwed block effectively welds the tread and riser together into a single, solid unit. It's not going anywhere. This is how you stop stairs creaking for good."

  1. Cut your blocks. You'll need some small, triangular blocks of wood. You can make them by cutting a piece of 2x2 inch timber diagonally. Make two or three blocks for each creaky step.

  2. Apply a generous amount of wood glue. Use a good quality PVA wood adhesive. Apply a thick bead of glue to the two faces of the block that will touch the tread and the riser. More is more here – you want the glue to squeeze out.

  3. Push the block firmly into the corner. Wiggle it a bit to spread the glue.

  4. Screw it in place. While the glue is still wet, drill pilot holes and screw the block securely to both the tread and the riser. This clamps the joint tight while the glue dries, forming an incredibly strong bond.

  5. Wipe away any excess glue with a damp cloth and leave it to dry. The squeak will be gone.

Method 4: Adding Glue and Wedges

This is another great method you can use from underneath, either on its own or in combination with the glue blocks. It's perfect for slightly larger gaps.

  • Apply wood glue directly into the gap between the tread and the riser or the tread and the stringer.

  • Get some small, thin wooden wedges. You can buy these or just cut some yourself from an offcut.

  • Gently tap the wedges into the glued gap with a hammer or a mallet. Don't force them in so hard that you lift the tread; you just want to apply enough pressure to close the gap and stop any movement.

  • Once the glue is dry, you can neatly trim off the excess part of the wedge with a sharp chisel or a flush-cut saw.

FAQs: Your Creaky Stair Questions Answered

  • "Will WD-40 or oil work on squeaky stairs?" No. Please don't do this. I've seen people make this mistake countless times. WD-40 is a water displacer and a solvent, not a lubricant for wood. Oil will just soak into the timber, potentially staining it, and it won't stop the movement which is the root cause of the problem. It will make a mess and it won't work.

  • "What if my stairs are made of MDF?" Many modern staircases use MDF for the treads and risers. The same principles apply. The glue block method from underneath is still the most effective fix. Screwing from above also works, but be careful not to overtighten the screws as MDF doesn't have the same holding power as solid timber.

  • "When should I call a professional?" If the squeaking is accompanied by a lot of bounce or noticeable movement in the whole staircase, or if you can see large, structural gaps along the stringer, it's best to call a joiner or a carpenter. While most creaks are harmless, significant movement could be a sign of a more serious issue that needs an expert eye.

And there you have it.

A few simple techniques can make a world of difference to a noisy staircase. It’s a classic DIY job that can seem intimidating, but it's usually very straightforward.

Remember, the key to it all is to stop the movement. That’s the entire secret. Whether you're using a simple screw from above or a sturdy glue block from below, taking an hour or two to fix your creaky stairs is a project that will pay you back every single day in peace and quiet. No more noisy announcements every time you go up to bed. Bliss.

Contact Us